A year had passed since my first visit to Dirt Candy, which opened with little fanfare but quickly earned recognition. When Village Voice crowned their grits the city’s best, I knew I needed to return.
On this visit, the tiny dining room buzzed with energy. Pink lights cast a soft glow across the space – not my taste, but the warmth from Chef Amanda Cohen’s team made up for it. Their focused menu offered just eight dishes total: four starters, four mains.
Food Rundown
Jalapeno Hush Puppies
The jalapeno hush puppies ($6) arrived first, bringing back memories of my initial visit. Fresh peppers gave them kick, though I craved more heat. A generous side of maple butter elevated each bite. When bread service arrived late, our server thoughtfully left the maple butter behind – a small touch that spoke volumes about their hospitality. The bread itself proved chewy, almost tough.
Side Salad
The refreshing side salad really kicked things up.
Kimchi Doughnuts
Next came the kimchi doughnuts ($13), which looked more like popcorn shrimp than doughnuts. While I couldn’t taste much kimchi, the deep-fried exterior was satisfying.
There was a noticeably long wait between appetizers and mains.
Stone Ground Grits
Finally, Amanda Cohen herself brought out my stone ground grits with tempura poached egg ($18). The grits came topped with cheese and sprouts, with bits of corn throughout. The egg was a marvel of technique – perfectly runny yolk in a crisp tempura shell.
One bite of those warm, creamy grits was exactly what I needed. Pure comfort food.
Conclusion
I remain entranced by Dirt Candy’s concept. They make gutsy, delicious vegetarian food unlike anywhere else. While some dishes might try too hard, when they nail it – like with those grits – it’s as if someone liquefied comfort and put it on a plate. Only wish I’d had room for dessert.
I’ll definitely return for the hush puppies and grits. The space may be small and too pink, but Chef Cohen’s thoughtful cooking and attention to diners makes it worth navigating those minor issues.
Our Verdict
Location
Dirt Candy — 430 E. 9th Street
