In February, I embarked on a week-long journey to Taiwan, coinciding with the Lunar New Year. Many restaurants, particularly vegetarian ones, were closed, but Taiwan’s vibrant street food culture saved the day. On my first day, I visited a roadside stand near the City God Temple to try Taiwan’s signature dish: chou doufu, or stinky tofu.
Stinky tofu is tofu left to ferment until it develops a unique aroma, often described as a mix of rotting garbage and unpleasant bodily odors. The most popular way to eat it is deep-fried and served with pickled cabbage and chili sauce.
The Stinky Tofu Experience
At first glance, it looked delicious, and I didn’t smell anything. I used my chopsticks to corral a piece, along with some cabbage, into my mouth, and took a bite. First impressions: not bad, it tasted a lot like fried tofu.
However, as I chewed, the aroma began to creep up the back of my throat. My brain sent emergency signals to my belly, urging me to get rid of it. But I refused to throw up in front of the woman who had just served me this meal. I recognized that there wasn’t anything wrong with the way it tasted; it was a pure psychological reaction to the smell.
As I continued to eat, I expected the effect to lessen, but it didn’t really. Each bite was a struggle, no matter how much cabbage and chili sauce I piled on to it. But I kept eating.
Encounters with Locals
About halfway through my meal, a local passing by stopped dead in his tracks when he saw me eating the tofu. He approached cautiously, and asked me if I was enjoying it. I told him it was very good, and he patted me on the back and moved on. I stayed until I finished the plate of tofu.
For the remainder of my time in Taiwan, every time I smelled the stuff, I had an immediate gag reflex. Determined not to let the stinky tofu beat me, a few days later I resolved to give it another go. At one of Taipei’s night markets, I stood in line, steeling myself to order it again. I was next in line to order when the smell hit me, and I had to retreat. Stinky tofu beat me after all.
Final Thoughts
On my last day in Taiwan, in the small town of Pinglin, I met a group of Americans traveling with some Taiwanese guides. As we talked about food, the Taiwanese guides asked (through the Americans) if I’d had a chance to try stinky tofu. After careful consideration, I said yes, I had. I said I had liked it, and was glad I’d tried it, but didn’t plan on eating it ever again. The laughter of everyone told me they had heard that reaction from foreigners before.
Stinky tofu is a unique and challenging experience, but it’s a must-try for anyone visiting Taiwan. While it may not be for everyone, it’s a testament to Taiwan’s rich and diverse street food culture.
