When I worked on the Upper East Side, Saigon Grill was my favorite spot for a meal. The food was incredible, but the restaurant had a no-frills, almost cafeteria-like vibe. Picture chipped Formica tables, fluorescent lighting, plastic potted plants, and service that bordered on indifferent.
Yet, it was clear the focus was on the food. During off-hours, the staff would sit in the dining room trimming vegetables or enjoying their own meals. No matter how busy it got, I could always find a table for one.
A Vegetarian’s Paradise
Unlike many Vietnamese restaurants, Saigon Grill offered a robust vegetarian menu. Many rice and noodle dishes could be adapted to vegetarian preferences. My personal favorite was the vegetarian Bun—a bowl of room-temperature rice noodles topped with sautéed vegetables.
The curries were also fantastic. The Rau Cai curry, served with noodles, rice on the side, and a flat pancake for wrapping, brought together bold flavors and textures beautifully.
Some dishes, however, were less memorable. The summer rolls and spring rolls fell short of expectations. But the Rau-Cai Nuong—a dish of skewered, grilled vegetables served with peanut dipping sauce—was a standout. The perfectly grilled broccoli, with crispy florets and crunchy stalks, was nothing short of a marvel. I still wonder how they achieved such a perfect texture.
The Union Square Transformation
When I heard Saigon Grill had opened a new location near Union Square, I couldn’t wait to visit. But my first step into the restaurant made me think I had walked into the wrong place. Gone was the casual, no-frills charm. In its place were high ceilings, fancy light fixtures, dark wood paneling, and rows of recessed wine bottles.
The space was massive—about five times the size of the old location—and bustling with a diverse crowd: professionals in ties, families, and couples. It was clear this wasn’t the same neighborhood joint I used to love.
The Menu and Pricing
Despite the upscale vibe, the menu looked familiar. I ordered my favorite vegetarian Bun, though the price had risen to $7.25 during lunch hours (up from $5.25 at the old location). Outside of lunch, the Bun was now $8.25. The food arrived quickly, thanks to an efficient and well-coordinated waitstaff that seemed to cover every corner of the dining room.
A Taste of Nostalgia
One bite of the Bun took me back. Its magic lies in the contrasts: salty, sautéed vegetables paired with sweet carrot salad; soft rice noodles juxtaposed with crunchy veggies; and the warm toppings set against cold noodles. Each bite offers a unique mix of textures and flavors, keeping you coming back for more until the bowl is empty.
