When I made lunch reservations at Per Se for my sister’s birthday, I knew we were in for a special experience. But from the moment they called to confirm the reservation and asked how to spell her name, I realized this meal would be something extraordinary. Everything about Per Se — the service, the food, the ambiance — creates an alternate reality that far surpasses the “real world” outside its doors.
Impeccable Service
The staff knew it was my sister’s birthday, and throughout the meal, they stopped by to wish her a happy one. The level of service was flawless. The servers moved through the dining room like a ballet, working in perfect harmony. As my friend Jess once said, there’s a real difference between a four-star and a five-star dining experience, and Per Se exemplifies the latter.
The Culinary Journey
Amuse-Bouche
Our meal began with a series of amuse-bouche courses. The first was a pair of gougères — delicate, warm bites filled with gruyere cheese. The second was tuile cones filled with horseradish cream and topped with roasted beets. Both dishes were playful, surprising, and set the tone for the extraordinary meal ahead.
Chilled Hass Avocado Soup
The first menu item was a chilled Hass avocado soup with honeydew melon, garden mint, and espelette pepper-scented mousse. While interesting, it was the least successful dish of the meal. The surprising flavor we couldn’t quite identify turned out to be yogurt — an element that added intrigue but left us undecided on whether we truly enjoyed it.
Gruyere and Truffle Fondue
Next came an extra course: a rich, buttery gruyere and truffle fondue served in a perfectly portioned dish. It was the ultimate example of restraint — just enough to savor the incredible flavors without overwhelming the palate. I could have eaten an entire bowl, but the small serving left me wanting more in the best possible way.
Sweet Carrot Sorbet
This dish was a revelation. Sweet carrot sorbet, paired with licorice-scented fennel bulb and carrot fronds, redefined what a dessert could be. Each bite was better than the last, and it quickly became my favorite dish of the meal. The flavor was a perfect encapsulation of the humble carrot, elevated to something extraordinary.
Salad of Abalone Mushroom
The abalone mushroom salad, served with new crop potatoes, violet artichokes, and mustard seed “ravigote,” was a masterclass in treating simple ingredients with the utmost respect. Each bite was perfectly balanced, proving that thoughtful preparation can elevate even the most humble ingredients.
Coddled Hen Egg with Truffles
This dish was the epitome of decadence. A coddled hen egg, bathed in thick truffle broth and topped with a mountain of freshly shaved truffles, left us speechless. Rich, creamy, and indulgent, it was my sister’s favorite course of the day.
The Dessert Finale
“Coffee” and Doughnuts
As a birthday treat for my sister, the iconic “coffee” and doughnuts were served with a candle. The warm, fluffy doughnuts paired with the astonishingly creamy coffee-flavored semifreddo were unforgettable.
Finally, we were presented with a delightful array of mignardises, including truffles and caramels, followed by a small takeaway snack. After three and a half hours of dining, we left thoroughly satisfied and deeply impressed by the artistry of the meal.
Our Verdict
Per Se – 10 Columbus Circle, New York, NY
