4 “Old School” Neighborhood Joints Keeping the Traditional Friday Fish Fry Alive

Annemarije De Boer Avatar
Annemarije De Boer Avatar

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Image: The Call Of

Catholic tradition dictates no meat on Fridays during Lent. New Orleans took that rule and built a year-round fish fry culture that outlasted its religious origins. Four neighborhood restaurants still pack their dining rooms every Friday serving fried seafood platters to families who’ve been coming for generations.

Casamento’s Restaurant, 4330 Magazine Street, Uptown.

Over a century old, and family-owned since 1919, Casamento’s is a local fixture in a way many restaurants can only dream of being. The interior is white subway tile floor to ceiling, immaculately clean. The restaurant serves oysters exclusively September through May, closing June-August when oysters aren’t in season. The oyster loaf is their signature: fried oysters stuffed into French bread with lettuce, tomato, pickles. $16. Oyster platters come fried or raw. $18-22. Everything is cooked to order in a tiny kitchen. Expect waits during lunch Friday. Open Thursday-Saturday 11am-2pm, 5:30pm-9pm. Closed Sunday-Wednesday and all summer. Cash only. Phone: (504) 895-9761.

Mandina’s Restaurant, 3800 Canal Street, Mid-City.

Image: Mandina’s Restaurant

Operating since 1932 in the same building near Canal Boulevard and Carrollton Avenue. The dining room has red vinyl booths, ceiling fans, and bartenders who’ve worked here for decades. The fried seafood platter is the move: catfish, shrimp, oysters piled on a plate with fries and coleslaw. $24. The restaurant also serves trout almondine, turtle soup, and red beans. Cash only. Open Monday-Saturday 11am-9pm. Closed Sunday. Hurricane Katrina flooded the building with 8 feet of water in 2005. The family rebuilt and reopened in 2007. Phone: (504) 482-9179.

Liuzza’s by the Track, 1518 North Lopez Street, Mid-City.

Image: Liuzza’s By The Track

Near the Fair Grounds Race Course lies the accurately named Liuzza’s By The Track. Operating since 1947 with minimal changes, the bar serves frozen mugs of beer, and the BBQ shrimp is famous: head-on shrimp in butter-Worcestershire sauce, served with French bread for soaking up sauce. $18. Fried catfish comes as plate or po’boy. $12-16. The gumbo is thick, dark, proper. $8. Open Tuesday-Saturday 11am-7pm. Closed Sunday-Monday. The dining room has 12 tables and a small bar. Arrive before noon or after 1:30pm to avoid peak lunch crowds. Phone: (504) 218-7888.

High Hat Cafe, 4500 Freret Street, Uptown.

Image: High Hat Cafe

The newest on this list, High Hat Cafe opened 2008 but serves traditional fried catfish that fits the list perfectly. The restaurant focuses on Delta soul food: catfish, fried chicken, mac and cheese, collard greens, you know the deal. The catfish plate is cornmeal-crusted with remoulade and fries. $16. The catfish po’boy is $14. Thursday is fried chicken night, and it draws in neighborhood crowds, so be ready for a wait. Friday is fish fry with an extended catfish menu. Open Tuesday-Thursday 11am-9pm, Friday-Saturday 11am-10pm, Sunday 10am-3pm brunch. Closed Monday. Like Anthony Bourdain: no reservations. Phone: (504) 754-1336.



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