Roast beef po’boys in New Orleans are judged by one metric: does the gravy drip down your arm before you finish the first half. The best shops pile slow-roasted beef on French bread, smother it in debris gravy, and hand it to you wrapped in so much paper you need both hands to keep it together. Six places do this better than anywhere else.
Parkway Bakery & Tavern, 538 Hagan Avenue, Mid-City.
The roast beef po’boy here is called “roast beef debris” because it includes the shredded beef bits and pan drippings that fall off during roasting. The debris gravy is thick, almost brown gravy consistency, soaking into the bread until the bottom half gets soft. Order it fully dressed with lettuce, tomato, pickles, mayo. The shrimp po’boy also ranks among the best in the city. Outdoor seating under oak trees. Long lines during lunch, especially weekends. Get there before 11:30am or after 2pm to avoid the rush. Open Wednesday-Monday 11am-10pm, closed Tuesday. Cash and cards accepted. Phone: (504) 482-3047.
Domilise’s Po-Boys, 5240 Annunciation Street, Uptown.
Family-run since 1918. The roast beef here is piled higher than Parkway’s and the gravy is thinner, more au jus than debris. The beef is tender enough to fall apart when you bite into it. Small dining room with maybe 10 tables and a bar with stools. Most people get takeout. Order at the counter, pay, wait for your number. The shrimp and oyster po’boys also get mentioned in every New Orleans food article ever written. Cash only. Open Monday-Saturday 10am-7pm, closed Sunday. No phone orders, show up and order in person.
Parasol’s Bar & Restaurant, 2533 Constance Street, Irish Channel.
During St. Patrick’s Day, the line wraps around the block because Parasol’s sits in the Irish Channel and everyone celebrates here. The bar side operates separately from the restaurant side. Order food from the restaurant counter, drinks from the bar. Small tables inside, picnic tables outside. Can get crowded and loud during Saints games. Open daily 11am-10pm. Phone: (504) 897-5413.
Tracey’s Original Irish Channel Bar, 2604 Magazine Street, Irish Channel.
Opened 1949. The roast beef po’boy here competes directly with Parasol’s two blocks away. Both have loyal followings who argue about which is better. Tracey’s uses more garlic in the gravy. The beef is sliced thicker than Parasol’s shredded version. Fully dressed means lettuce, tomato, mayo, pickles. The bread gets soggy fast, eat it immediately or the bottom falls apart in your hands. Bar atmosphere with TVs showing sports. Gets packed during Saints and LSU games. Open daily 11am-2am. Kitchen closes at 10pm weeknights, midnight weekends. Phone: (504) 897-5413.
Johnny’s Po-Boys, 511 St. Louis Street, French Quarter.
It’s a tourist location, but locals still eat here. The roast beef po’boy is served cafeteria-style. Order at the counter, take a number, and pick up your sandwich when called. The gravy is thinner than Parkway’s debris style, closer to Domilise’s au jus. The beef portions are generous. The bread holds up better than other shops because they don’t oversaturate it. Seating is limited, mostly counter space and a few tables. Lines move fast. Open daily 8am-4:30pm. Cash and cards. Phone: (504) 524-8129.
Mother’s Restaurant, 401 Poydras Street, CBD.
Famous for the Ferdi Special, which is roast beef and baked ham on the same po’boy with debris gravy. The roast beef-only version is called the “roast beef debris.” Mother’s claims to have invented debris-style roast beef in New Orleans, though other shops dispute this. The line starts before opening and stays long until mid-afternoon. Order at the counter, cafeteria-style. The dining room is large with communal seating. Tourists dominate the crowd. The food is solid, not exceptional. People go because it’s famous. Open daily 7am-10pm. Phone: (504) 523-9656.
Roast beef po’boys don’t travel well, so be prepared to eat it there. The gravy soaks through the bread, the beef gets cold, and the whole thing falls apart after 20 minutes. Whether you choose to eat it at the shop or in your car in the parking lot, with napkins piled on your lap, the timer that the sandwich is on is not a flaw. It’s the whole point.
